After our hockey victory we traveled down the Indus River Valley toward the village of Thiksay to visit the Thiksay Monastery. It was a beautiful day and a beautiful place, but I have to say I was pumped (geeky history guy alert) to be traveling along the headwaters of the Indus River!
Everyone loves a banjo!
Young monks playing in the snow.
Had the early ice this morning, which was a nice change. Due the bitter cold the ice was really brittle and we had to stay clear from some pretty serious cracks.
1st game was a rematch with the Indian national team, which we won. Long story short, we entered the finals against Canada’s Sacred Bulls and found ourself ties 2-2 after 5 mins of overtime. A great game which was then decided by a shootout, to the delight of the fans. Both teams had local goalies who were amazing in the shootout (whole game, really) but in the end team “World White” had the lone goal. Champions!
Our live play by play announcer and DJ
The “Red, White, and Blue” line…(American line) with the championship trophy
Great fun, but this is the real reason for the tournament
The winters are long and the social problems are many. Hockey provides a great outlet for the youth of Ladakh. Leh is a big town, with some resources, but the remote villages of Ladakh are isolated without heat, water, or electricity….but they have hockey. This gear is mostly youth gear, and will be going out to these remote villages.
After a great day of hockey it was up the mountain to the Buddhist Monastery that looks over Leh. We had a stunning day, so I ‘ll let the picture speak (mostly) for themselves.
Room with a view
These two girls hiked up from town to pray at the monestery
The Old Palace of Leh’s Royal Family
The kingdom is no more, but the old palace remains.
Leh is the capital and largest city of the Ladakhi District of Jammu-Kashmir. About 28,000 people live in the city of remarkable harmony, Leh prides itself on its history of religious and ethnic cohesiveness. Muslims and Tibetan Buddhists dominate this town known as “Little Tibet,” though Hindhi, Sikhs, and Christians call this town home as well.
Leh’s Mosque in the center of town, with Buddhist prayer flags.
Things are changing at a rapid pace for the people of Leh. 25 years ago the people in and around Leh imported about 15% of its food needs, now they import over 60%. Why? One is that young people are leaving remote villages for life and education in the city (often finding limited opportunities for work), no longer farming the remote valleys of the high mountains. The other primary reason is the new tourist economy. Almost the entire economy is based on the 3 or so months of the summer trekking season, when Leh is jammed with tourists looking to trek the stunning Ladakhi mountains. Winter is very quiet in comparison, but a simple walk around town show signs of the summer chaos.
As we walked by the main mosque, we heard the late afternoon call to prayer
Not a great video…but the live signing is amazing!
Saturday morning was the beginning of the Indo-Canadian Friendship Tournament. Our (World-White) had our first match against the “India 2” team, the second match of the day and already the ice was near dangerous. Ruts the size of boots. All was well, however, since I was near useless after 30 seconds of play. The rink is near 12,000ft and you could feel it. What was amazing was how fast you recovered…10 seconds on the bench and you’re ready to head back out.
“World White” was a true international team. We had players from the States, Germany, Switzerland, Quebec (I was told they are not real Canadians…it was a joke), and Canada “proper.” Almost all were ex-pats living in Singapore, India or Australia. Quite a mix.
The game was slow, due to ice and the small ice surface (its crowded!), but tons of fun! Erik and I were on the same line (Erik played left wing, I had center) for the first time ever and on the same team for the first time since high school. Lucky for us our linemate, Sam, played D1 collegiate hockey at Niagara. Got my first goal in international competition in a 4-3 victory. A great start to an undefeated day, beating “India 1” (the national team) and then beating Canada’s Sacred Bulls 4-0!
I was tired, it was 12:30pm and felt like 6:00, but I…everyone in fact…was in awe of the day’s experience.
Some pics…I’ll add more later, as some ex-pat fans took great pics of the action.
“World White” getting ready to play
Leh’s rink is an irrigation reservoir which they flood every night they flood with the water underneath. By early afternoon the ice is pretty bad…actually, really bad…not only chewed up from play, but softens up in the near 40 degree temps and strong sun. Nights, however, are bitter cold…20 below or more…so the ice surface is solid by morning.
There is a rink down in the valley that has been under construction for the past 5 years, it is a simple rink (no cooling system) but a full size ice surface with space for fans…they even have a small “tow behind a tractor” type zamboni to use once completed. Many, however, feel that it will never be finished due to a lack of funds.
Military leadership…too bad the Ladakhi Scouts lost.
Got up way early for the flight, but after many security checks and baggage weight issues (limited weight allowances due to tricky landing in the Himalayas…and the hockey gear is not light) we were on our way. Lucky for us the flight left pretty much on time, after seemingly taxiing halfway there (I swear, it was 20 minutes or more), and landed without incident. I guess, when the local weather is bad…which can happen quickly, the plane will fly circles around Leh for a couple hours waiting for safe conditions to land, only to then fly back to Delhi. We had beautiful weather…breathtaking actually and arrived in little over an hour from Delhi.
Leh is the largest city in the Ladakhi region of the Himalayan Crescent. It is part of the Indian state of Jammu-Kashmir, an area that, west of us, is in a state of war between Pakistan and India. Ladakh, to the east, is relatively peaceful, though there is a huge (and proud, more on that later) military presence here, since China (Tibet) is about 20 miles to the north and east, and they too claim this region.
Our bus, on arrival. Notice the military tower, strong military presence since we are in the middle of disputed territories (China and Pakistan claim this region as their own).
This bus had a sweet stereo!
After dropping off our bags at the hotel and grabbing breakfast, we went to the rink to watch the Women’s (2nd annual) and Men’s (5th annual) championships. This was unbelievable (a word I will invoke too many times from now on, but always appropriate).
Local Zamboni
Between periods entertainment Ladakhi style
Local Dignitaries
There were somewhere around 3000 people watching, many clinging to trees.
Ladakhi Penalty Box…where you feel shame.
Some championship hockey action, a game between the Ladakhi Scouts (branch of the Indian Army) and the Indian National Team.
The views were just breathtaking, hard to take in and impossible to capture with any justice. Its funny that, no matter how impossible the task, I couldn’t stop trying to find that elusive picture.
After Lodi Gardens we traveled to Humayun’s Tomb, built in the mid 16th century and is believed to be the architectural inspiration for Shah Jahan’s Taj Mahal.
Built by Haji Begum, the Persian born “senior wife” of Emperor Humayun. The Tomb is renown for symbolizing (or showcasing) the rising Persian influence in Mughal architecture. This tomb brought Persian style to Delhi (thanks to its Persian born architect), while maintaining local sensibilities. A true blend of culture from a dynamic time in South Asia.
Humayun’s Tomb, notice the smokey haze…
Now off to Leh! This flight is notorious for weather cancellations, so let’s hope for the best!
After the railway fun, Erik and I visited some of the many tombs of India’s Lodi Dynasty and Mughal Dynasties.
Delhi is a city of Empire…for centuries. Everywhere one goes in this town is bombarded with the city’s previous identities.
Picture of Sheesh Gumbad (Hindi tomb with its attached Mosque, built later) and Bara Gumbad Tomb
No one is certain who resides in these
Not sure what this means…commentary? A joke? I like it nonetheless.
Lodi Gardens was a wonderful, peaceful oasis in a chaotic bustle of Delhi. Many people were out for an afternoon stroll, picnicing, or, dare I say, “canoodling” young couples (albeit, tame) away from their parents….all around 15th century tombs. A really pleasant place.
I arrived to a town that smells like its on fire. Delhi is plagued with a smoky smog that seems to huddle over the entire town. Even at the airport you can see the haze at the end of long walkways. The problem is threefold; Delhi in winter is heavy with fog, industrial pollution, and everyone is burning everything possible to stay warm…plastic, garbage, old food, wood…everything. Its not cold, but by looking at the local “Delhians” you’d swear that its 10 below zero.
The air is really bad.
After a nice (Incredible!) Indian meal and I night sleep, Erik and I left for the US Embassy.
No picture of the US Embassy, as there are no electronic devices allowed, but if you would like to know what it looks like just look at a picture of NY’s Kennedy Center for the Performimg Arts. They look almost identical and designed by the same guy.
I did, however, see this:
I believe that a Dunkin’ Burger is made out of Mutton, since cows are sacred and all.
After a tour of the Embassy we took a “Tuk Tuk” taxi to the railway museum. These “Tuk Tuks” are cheap, plentiful and treacherous modes of transport. Saw these all over Nicaragua as well, not sure who makes them.
Tuk Tuk ride
Some shots from the railway museum…surprisingly interesting
Old steam “monorail.” Still runs
Diesel locomotive built in the US by Alco
Kid’s “Joy Train,” They wouldn’t let me ride.
Speaks for itself…
Speak, Memory 